It does not happen often that a place you think you know reasonably well and have spent enough time idling in it and discovering it surprises you with a gem. If the place in question is moderately important river port town in one of the poorest countries on earth then the shock is even greater. Such great surprise was waiting for me in Mopti, Mali of all places.
Optimistically referred to as “Venice of Mali” or “la Venise du Mali” in French, Mopti is moderately important river port sitting on a confluence of two big Malian rivers – Niger river and Bani river. It is also a mere 12km of very straight tarred road away from main Malian crossroad in the town of Sevare. If you want to go anywhere in Mali you simply have to pass Sevare. Wanna see the Dogon people and Bandiagara escarpment? You turn right in Sevare. Is the road taking you to Timbuktu or even Gao? You drive straight trough Sevare. Wanna spend a few days cruising the Niger river all the way to Timbuktu or even further? You’ve guessed it. Sevare is on your way. And most parties spend the night there too as it is conveniently placed right half way between Bamako and Timbuktu. Only it is incredibly dull and uninspiring roadside little town.
Enter Mopti. Mere 12km away it has got it all. A river with sunsets, a lively port with salt slabs from Timbuktu, market with all kinds of wares, pottery business, bus terminus, hospital, a few restaurants strategically positioned to offer those stunning sunset views over the Bani river (most notably Bissap café which beats Restaurant Bar Bozo hands down in food and especially friendliness) and a selection of hotels that cater for every traveller – from backpacker places to the ones with rooftop bars and restaurants and pools to chill in.
I’ve spent quite some time in Mopti, exploring it by myself, visiting friends and discovering more hidden sides to it and would fancy saying I know it very well. So I was all the more surprised when a friend I’ve just met at the rooftop bar of “Y a pas de probleme” hotel mentioned going for a cocktail in a place nearby. A proper cocktail? In Mopti? In a run-down part of Mopti at that? It didn’t take much convincing to get me on board of such unlikely endeavour.
Remarkably, a place called La Maison Rouge was just mere two minutes down the dusty back alley. With a neatly designed driveway and not too pretentious entry it made a good first impression. Not that it really would need too as long as they really serve cocktails as promised. The building, built in Moroccan style, certainly stands out in a neighbourhood where every other house is typically and unmistakeably suburban African – with all good and bad things that come with that. Designed, owned and run by a French architect it oozes charm, friendliness and comfort. For a start you are greeted by two friendly dogs freely running around and following you everywhere you go, from room to room, from one table to another, be it terrace, Moroccan salon or the garden.
Friendly staff made the promise about the cocktails true with best drinks I had anywhere outside the capital Bamako. But just when you think life is great, sitting under warm Malian sky, sipping away your local version of caipirinha and chatting about life and everything the owner strolls by and offers an impromptu visit of the palace. Beautifully decorated 12 rooms are all worth a visit as not even two are identical. But the best is – as expected – kept for the end. Amédé Mulin, the owner, unearths the crown jewel of his place. A room under the vast African sky. With no roof and only two walls. And a million of stars above the king-size bed to put you to sleep. And it also comes with wise words – take it only if you are an early bird as the bright African sun is not only strong but also likes to rise really really early…
