Every now and then you can witness a group of Peul settlers – a group of few hundreds – move around the continent. From country to country. They would start in a country like Chad and gather few more followers in Niger before passing with all their livestock and belongings over to Burkina Faso and on to Mali and further in search of new terrains to exploit. The countries tolerate such movements of people across borders as long as they cause no harm.
You see Africa is a bit like European Union with the freedom of movement. Granted if you take the road you are obliged to pass the official border crossings, police and customs. But if you are a settler you can move freely across the waste continent. In a way Africa is a lot simpler. As long as you belong to one of the indigenous groups from the region you have the right to occupy whichever piece of the land you deem fit as long as you conform to local customs, regulations and do not harm other peoples prospects or occupy their property.
There was such group in the region around the village of Teberemt. Just that this group did not quite conform to those unwritten rules. Worse yet they were attacking local population. They would stalk the lonely passageways in the region attacking the lone passerby on his bike and taking all of his possessions. Needless to say local population did not feel safe anymore and wanted to see some response from the authorities.
When the authorities arrived I was expecting talks, talks and then some more talks to be happening all day long. But to my surprise they have showed up, got the required greetings and Tuareg tea under way and packed the cars with a few soldiers and loads of locals and went in search of the supposed perpetuators.
What they found was an illegal well providing much needed water for their livestock, a guardian and workers from Burkina Faso contracted by the settlers that were trying to dig even bigger well. Now, one would expect that with attacks on local population and wells being constructed without any kind of authorization on Malian soil they would arrest them all. But no. Despite all that the workers were told to pack their equipment and leave straight back to Burkina Faso while the guardian did get arrested and taken to prison but not for violating aforementioned things but because it turned out the settlers leader was his father and they have figured this is how they will get hold of him.
With the problems resolved a proper feast was in place followed by talks and talks. All the big shots had to have a chance at expressing their satisfaction over the affair. And just when we all thought all was said and the day can slowly conclude there was a surprise in store. There was a special guest present that the dignitaries believed he should make the closing speech. Between all those important people – from police and army chiefs to majors of towns and regional sub governor – and local Tuareg population was a toubab. And his was to be the last word. Very much surprised and caught off guard I managed to produce some blah blah followed by some blah. And everybody was happy.